Standing guard over the serene coastline of Ilocos Sur, the San Esteban Moro Watchtower (locally known as Bateria) is a silent witness to centuries of maritime history. While often overshadowed by the larger belfries of Vigan or Bantay, this coral-stone sentinel offers a raw, rugged beauty that is a must-visit for any traveler exploring the 2nd District.
The Sentinel of the Sea: A Brief History
The San Esteban Watchtower is one of the many coastal fortifications built along the Ilocos coastline during the Spanish Colonial Era.
- Created Around: Most historians date these coastal baluartes to the late 18th to early 19th centuries, a period when the Spanish government fortified Northern Luzon’s shores.
- The Material: It is constructed primarily from coral stone and bricks, bonded by a traditional mixture of lime and egg whites—a testament to the architectural ingenuity of that era.
The Purpose: Defense and Early Warning
The name “Moro Watchtower” stems from its primary function: guarding against pirate raids. During the Spanish period, “Moro” pirates from the southern seas would often raid northern coastal towns for supplies and captives.
- Early Warning System: Lookouts stationed at the top would scan the horizon. Upon spotting a suspicious sail, they would ring bells or light signal fires to warn the townspeople to flee to the mountains or the fortified church.
- World War II Utility: Decades later, the tower’s strategic vantage point was repurposed. During the Japanese occupation, it served as a vital communication post for the USAFIP-NL (United States Armed Forces in the Philippines – Northern Luzon), helping coordinate the local resistance.
What to Expect Today
Unlike the restored towers in other provinces, the San Esteban Bateria retains a weathered, authentic charm.
- Panoramic Views: If you climb the small hill where it sits, you are rewarded with a 360-degree view of the West Philippine Sea on one side and the lush, rolling hills of San Esteban on the other.
- Photography: It is a favorite spot for photographers, especially during the “Golden Hour,” when the setting sun hits the textured coral stones.
How to Get There
San Esteban is conveniently located along the MacArthur Highway, making it an easy pitstop between Candon City and Vigan.
- From Candon City:
- By Jeepney/Bus: Any Northbound bus (bound for Vigan or Laoag) will pass through San Esteban. It is only about a 15-20 minute ride.
- By Private Vehicle: Head North on the National Highway. Once you reach the San Esteban town proper, look for signs leading toward the coastline/Barangay Bateria.
- From Vigan City:
- By Bus: Take any Southbound bus (bound for Manila, Baguio, or Dagupan). The trip takes approximately 45-60 minutes.
- Drop-off Point: Ask the conductor to drop you off at the San Esteban town plaza or the junction leading to the Watchtower.
Traveler’s Tip:
Combine your visit with a trip to the San Esteban Fish Sanctuary or the nearby Apatot Beach. Since you’re in the area, don’t forget to try the local niniyog or other delicacies San Esteban is known for!